How to import files into darktable

If you try using darktable 3.6 and previously been using older versions then you may be confused. In lighttable, import pane there are two buttons instead of one. Below you can find a little explanation.

1. Add to library

By selecting “add to library” you just collect selected pictures instead of physically copying them. Be sure to check settings, storage, xmp, “write sidecar file each image”. For long time I used this setting to write these xmp files, but recently I decided to skip that option. That way the only option to move around picture with its processing settings is either to export it as JPEG (or other “developed” format) or move whole darktable stuff (database etc.).

2. Select folder

Once you decided if you want to add or copy files as well as to check if you would like to write sidecar xmp files, then step is to select which folder (and files) you would like to consider. Check “recursive directory” and default if you would like to process only RAW files, skipping JPEGs. I import both RAW and JPEGs as most of the time I take both RAW and JPEG at the same time. RAW for full processing and JPEG to quick overview.

Remember that after you press “add to library”, darktable may be a little unresponsive. Be sure to check import progress on the darktable icon. In older versions, darktable been showing import progress on bottom left, but in current versions I could not see this anymore.

RAW processing with darktable 3.6

If you shoot RAW then most probably you need to have dedicated software for processing such files. I use darktable, however it is worth to mention that Windows Explorer and built-in image viewer can display RAW image. Just in case there is no other software available at the moment. Still if you need to edit RAW files and not only browse them then you should try darktable. It is open source, free of charge, available for Windows and Linux.

First of all it is great picture browser. You add or copy your files, both from local and remote drives. In case you have network folders, first you need to mount them in the operating system so darktable could see them. You can tag and rate pictures. You can show or hide specific panes depending on your needs.

lighttable

Secondly it has tons of image processing features. I use such tools as sharpen, local contrast, shadows and highlights, exposure, crop and rotate. These are basics. If you put your stuff to commercial stocks, then RAW denoise and profiled denoise are your friends. You can try to minimize chromatic, lens or perspective imperfections with dedicated tools. If you have some dead pixels then you can try tool called hot pixels.

darkroom

In case you would like to experiment a little bit then there is whole section of effects like colorize, grain or split-toning. You can have fun. I really like darktable because of its completeness and nice shortcuts like Alt+1, 2 or 3 for zooms and “w” for full screen preview. Going between light and dark modes is as easy as double clicking on the image itself. Last thing is “tab” which hides all panes except pictures grid or picture itself if in darkroom mode.

YN50/1.8 vs Nikkor 35-70 3.3/4.5 – sharpness comparison

I started wondering if cheap YN lens can be compared with with some cheap Nikkor lens. Yes it can. I shoot same lens cap with Nikon D200 with these two lenses with are Yongnuo 50mm/f1.8 and Nikkor 35 – 70mm f3.3/4.5. I think that comparing fixed lens with zoom lens might be weird, but originally I though that even with zoom, Nikkor should be better. I was wrong. If anyone is not convinced why should you buy fixed-focus prime lens below you have practical explanation.

YN 50mm / f1.8 fixed lens

The reason why I even bother to compare them at such a level is that I was disappointed with the Nikkor lens. It produces flat output. I would not say that it is blurry but it is much less vibrant as cheap Chinese fixed lens. Which is somehow interesting.

Nikkor AF 35 – 70 mm / f3.3 – f4.5

As shown below on two samples YN produces much better image which is sharp with plenty of details. Nikkor produces image which is a little softer with less color details.

YN at f/5.6
Nikkor at 50mm f/5.6

As a conclusion I should say that maybe comparing fixed lens with zoom is exaggeration, but it is nice to know that there are such differences.

Nikon D7100 vs D200

Some time ago I got rid of my D200. But now I have another one in excellent shape. In the past I upgrade from it to D7100 which is better in terms of resolution, sharpness and features. But there are some differences like image plasticity and color vibrance which make D200 still a very good camera. If shooting low light then D7100 wins for sure because of wider dynamic range, but if lighing is fine and you need not to crop pictures then go with other cameras like D200 or D70s. They work very well and produces fine images.